Qué hacer, dónde comer, adónde va la noche.

The city's most talked-about kitchen of the moment, hidden down a quiet upper-town alley near the Turkish consulate. Chef Giorgos Zannakis writes the menu fresh each day around whatever the morning market gives up, sending out precise, playful Greek-Mediterranean plates — vine-leaf 'sushi' draped with seabass, sea-fennel tarts scattered with edible flowers, fish cooked just-so in bright sauces. The room is tiny and the kitchen open, so you watch the cooking happen; book ahead, because word is well out.

A pared-back Middle Eastern street-food window on Agias Sofias, all white tile and a yellow trim, dealing in the Levantine flavours the rest of the centre mostly skips — sesame-crusted falafel, spiced meats and chicken, fattoush, grilled halloumi and proper tahini and garlic sauces, in wraps or loaded trays. One of the highest-rated bites in the city, and deservedly busy at lunch.

A modern dessert destination devoted to choux pastry — profiteroles, éclairs and cream-filled choux lined up in a long glass case, served in a smart wood-panelled room a block back from the waterfront. It has built one of the biggest sweet-tooth followings in the city for its takes on the Greek profiterole, so expect a queue at peak times.

A perennially packed neighbourhood taverna in the upper old town, and one of the highest-rated places to eat in the whole city — the kind of unfussy spot locals quietly send you to. The cooking is honest, generous home-style Greek: slow-braised beef over silky puree, prawns in a tomato-feta sauce, baked feta with honey and sesame, and a properly dressed village salad, all at fair prices. The room is small and cosy and the service warm; come early or book, because it fills most nights.

A tiny wood-fired street-food counter on Venizelou dealing in the flatbreads of Salento, the heel of Italy's boot — dough baked in a wood oven, then split and stuffed to order with slow-cooked fillings and pulled cheese. It has built one of the biggest followings of any place in the centre on the strength of doing one thing extremely well. Grab one hot in paper and eat it on the street.